Back in Ecuador...womp womp :(

Kelly and I have successfully arrived back in Guayaquil and are once more (mostly) connected with the world. We will be posting thousands of pictures in the next few days, but we have also been adding pictures to past-posts now that we have a stronger internet connection! Feel free to re-examine older posts for newly added (and breathtaking if I do say so myself) pictures!

Day 10 - 8/1 - San Cristobal Island (Day 7 in Galapagos)

Morning Hike @ Punta Pitt, San Cristobal

Well, what else is new, I have a new favorite island. After breakfast a group of us loaded onto a zodiac and took a coastal tour around San Cristobal and its’ satellite (smaller) islands. As we navigated off the coast, we were able to see how beautiful the outermost terrain of this island is - coves and jagged peaks every which way…imagine the Grand Canyon, except, no guardrails! Since it was early (about 8 am), we were able to see the elusive Red Footed Boobies, Frigates, and Sea Lions actively hunting for breakfast. 

After exploring the perimeter of the island, we “wet landed” at Punta Pitt. Here about a dozen more sea lions lazily slept on the sand, which was soft and glittery; Ximena, our naturalist, explained that the glittery sediments are actually incredibly broken down pieces of lava from when this island was formed between 2.5 million-3.8 MYA (one of the oldest islands). Crazy.

We hiked throughout Punta Pitt and (as you can see through the pictures below) the landscape was breathtaking. Very little vegetation grows on this island, because it only receives 3-4 inches of rain each year. Ximena pointed out that near the shoreline bushes called Saltworth grow. We were allowed to taste the tiny yellow berries that grow on the bush and they tasted just like salt water/ocean, since they absorb the oxygen coming off the ocean. 

Along with the Saltworth bushes, many white trees covered the island, which we learned were the homes to the Red Footed Boobies. These animals are so fascinating; they have blue beaks and lightly tinted blue feet, that will not turn red until they are between the ages of 2 and 5 years old. We also learned that the RBF’s are the only boobie with prehensile feet, which allows them to hold tightly onto tress/bushes. This is an evolutionary adaptation over frigate birds, who prey on the RBF’s newly hatched chicks. Since the frigates lack the prehensile feet, they cannot easily steal RFB chicks from the nests…seriously, how cool is that?! As we were preparing to hike down the mountain, we saw some four-legged animals in the distance…not a common sight in the Galapagos. It turns out it was a wild herd of goats - an invasive species to the islands. Ximena explained to us the measures people have gone to in order to eradicate the goats, but it seems they are smarter than they appear and thus, continue to survive on the islands. 

After our hike we spent some time on the beach, fawning over sea lion pups (ok that was just me…) and swimming. The sun here at the equator is so hot on clear days, that my skin actually hurt at some points, so KH and I have been careful to apply/reapply sunscreen and/or spend as much time in the water as possible…which hasn’t been 100% effective...

Snorkeling @ Leon Dormido, San Cristobal -

SHARKS! WE SWAM WITH SHARKS!!! Around 3 o’clock, we loaded a zodiac to head to Leon Dormido (the sleeping lion) rock formation a few miles off the coast of San Cristobal.This area is known for high shark populations, as well as sea turtles, sea lions, and colorful fish. Within twenty minutes or so, KH and I were swimming with more than 2 dozen sharks - mostly white tipped reef sharks, although there were a few dark tipped reef sharks and Galapagos sharks mixed in. It was incredible to be so close to these beautiful animals - they move so effortlessly. We took a lot of video and before long, we had also seen a few Spotted Eagle Rays. A few peoples we snorkeled with saw a hammerhead, but KH and I did not, which would be depressing if it weren’t for the amazing animals we did get to see. 

Farewell Endeavour -

After snorkeling, the ship sailed around Leon Dormido as we enjoyed a bon voyage party on the aft of the ship. It was wonderful to take pictures and spend time with people we have befriended  over the last week and the sun set over Leon Dormido was the perfect setting. As one final hurrah, we were took a zodiac into the town of San Cristobal to shop and explore. It was the perfect ending to an unforgettable, amazing, incredible, life-changing adventure. 

Fun Fact: The Galapagos are home to the largest population of RFB in the world

Fun Fact: Sea Lion pups have denser fur than adults, because they do not have as much fat to keep them warm

 Red Footed Boobie

Red Footed Boobie sitting on her nest

 San Cristobal 

 Punta Pitt 

 San Cristobal 

 Saltworth Plant

 Flora on San Cristobal

 Sea lion heap...there are 8 there! 

 Sunset sail around Leon Dormido

 Leon Dormido - where we swam with sharks!! 

Day 9 - 7/31 - Santa Cruz Island (Day 6 in Galapagos) GIANT TORTOISES!

Santa Cruz – So strange to be back in civilization!  We haven’t seen houses or human structures in five days.  Docked in Puerto Ayora, a town of 18,000 people, the only post office, and the Charles Darwin Research Station.  Visited their giant tortoise breeding program where Lonesome George lived out the second half of his life.  The researchers take and incubate eggs from the different species and keep them safe until they’re five and then return them to their respective islands.  Each one is marked by a number and color for identification.  Until they are about two or three they are often eaten by rats, and then from three to five, feral pigs are a problem.  By five, they are big enough to be safe but still small enough to move.  There are about seven adults here, but they are accidental hybrids from their time in captivity in the early 1900s.  They have no true homes to return to.  Fascinating place.

From the research center we walked into town along Darwin Avenue, visiting small shops for souvenirs.  We met for a drink then were shipped out to get suited up for mountain bikes.  It was a hilly three-mile ride that was through gorgeous country-side with farms and pastures growing coffee, sugar cane, bananas, papayas I think, corn, bamboo, grazing cattle, chickens in trees, pretty flowers (non-native because purples, pinks, and reds – endemic species are white or yellow), etc.  It was green and lush like we would picture on a tropical island but stood out because it was nothing we’ve seen so far.  BUT TOO MANY HILLS!  Ugh – need to save biking for flat Chicago. 

Our bike route ended at a family farm that demonstrated how they made coffee from the beans, sugar, molasses, and some serious alcohol.  Dehydrated from our sweaty bike ride, we tried shots of alcohol, juice with alcohol, and the excellent coffee they made there.  My head was swimming!

Next, lunch in the highlands at a family run open-air restaurant for grilled chicken, then on to my favorite part of the day. - walking among giant tortoises in the wild.  This time of year they are all over the place because they’ve moved up to get vegetation fed by the moisture that accumulates on the western elevations.  The lowlands are dormant because it’s the dry season.  Tracking studies show that these giants migrate long distances on many islands corresponding with the seasons.  As you can see from the pictures, these are large lumbering creatures that look like ET and are pretty unfazed by us humans.   I found them adorable and ancient. 

Another fascinating day in the Galapagos!

PS Happy Birthday Grandpa and Zoe if you’re reading.  J

Strange pond with red tiny fern plants on right, but in the shade on the left, green duckweed covering.  Boots definitely necessary!

As they dropped dried coffee beans into the big pestle, they wave the feather fan to separate the papery casing. 

Wonderland

Salad

At the research center.  

Checking us out.